For 2010, Vacheron Constantin presents the Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2253” watch in the Collection Excellence Platine. This model features a major astronomical complication in terms of technical application. Entirely constructed by Vacheron Constantin’s engineering department and developed over several thousands of hours, the new Calibre 2253 provides information derived from Earth’s orbit around the sun, notably a perpetual calendar, the equation of time and the times of sunrise and sunset. It has a tourbillon escapement as well.

A power reserve of around 336 hours or 14 days

To celebrate its 250th anniversary in 2005, Vacheron Constantin introduced the Saint-Gervais watch. Its Calibre 2250 tourbillon movement with a perpetual calendar had the then exceptional running time of 250 hours from the energy stored in four mainspring barrels. The experience gained in making the Calibre 2250 was applied to the development of the Calibre 2253. The new movement benefited from the latest techniques deployed by the manufacturer’s technicians, engineers and watchmakers.

Despite supporting extra mechanical complexity, the Calibre 2253 exhibits a breathtaking amount of power reserve – some 336 hours or 14 days of running time drawn from two pairs of coupled barrels.  The power reserve is shown through the sapphire-crystal caseback.

The fascinating equation of time

The equation of time is probably the most fascinating complication in this outstanding model. Its purpose is to indicate the difference in minutes between the variable solar time shown by a sundial and the constant mean time of clocks and watches. For practical reasons, mankind has divided each year into 365 and a quarter days, each day into 24 hours, and the hours into 60 minutes each. However, because the Earth’s orbit is elliptical rather than circular, the time in relation to the sun varies daily. The noon zenith of the sun when it crosses the observer’s meridian seldom occurs at exactly 12 o’clock by his watch. In fact solar time and mean time coincide just four times a year – on April 15, June 14, September 1 and December 24. For the rest of the year, the difference between solar and mean time varies from minus 16 minutes to plus 16 minutes.

The oldest clock showing the equation of time was made by the mathematician Nikolaus Mercator in the 17th century. It enabled folk to covert the sun’s varying noon to the standard constant time shown on their watches. Since then, the rare instruments calculating the equation of time have been the work of extremely accomplished horologists.

Making this complication work does indeed call for particular skill. It depends on the equation cam, a waisted oval, shaped like a figure 8 and calculated according to the daily declination of the sun observed from a given spot. The cam rotates once a year while a hand following its contour indicates the equation of time at between 10 and 11 o’clock on the dial of the Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2253” timepiece of the Collection Excellence Platine.

When the sun rises and sinks

This timepiece displays another function seldom found in watches – the times of sunrise and sunset throughout the year at a given locality. This tricky complication also relies on a cam, the outline of which is calculated according to the latitude of the locality. It demonstrates both the skill of the manufacture’s engineers and watchmakers and Vacheron Constantin’s attention to its clients, for they can choose the place of the sunrises and sunsets. To this extent it’s a custom-made complication where the dials are paired at 8 o’clock and 4 o’clock on the face.

The tourbillon carriage, as always in the shape of the brand emblem, a Maltese Cross, rotates once a minute at 6 o’clock as a small seconds indication. The indications of the perpetual calendar are symmetrically laid out with the days, the months and the dates at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock respectively. The leap-year indicator makes a circumspect appearance on the upper right.  

An exceptional level of finish

The sophisticated finish of this watch is taken to the limits to match its complexity. As part of the Collection Excellence Platine this Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2253” unsurprisingly incorporates many elements in platinum, from its 43 mm case, water-resistant at a pressure of 3 bar or 30 meters, to its dial hallmarked “PT950”, its crown and its folding clasp in the shape of a halved Maltese Cross. There is one other most unusual, if not unique, horological feature: even the Dauphine hands that show the hours and minutes are fashioned in the same material – an incredible technical prowess. The decoration of the dial alternates silvered and frosted surfaces, with snailed chapters, circular-brushed subdials and diamond-polished filets. The applied hour markers and Maltese Cross are in white gold.

The Calibre 2253 movement also bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, which is an independent and legally sanctioned label of workmanship, origin, precision, resilience and competence. This seal of watchmaking perfection, among the oldest of professional labels, is reserved for a handful of Geneva manufacturers. It means that such decorative aspects of the movement as Côtes de Genève, circular graining, chamfering and straight graining of the steelwork are entirely done by hand.

The finish of the thin bridge that holds the tourbillon is an example among many. It consists of rounding off the top of the rectangular steel bar with a file to create a gleaming barrel-vault along its upper length. The camber follows the shape of the bridge from its jewelled centre to its winged extremities. The entire operation involves grinding and smoothing the surface with a variety of stones and abrasive pastes and then buffing it to a high polish. To meet Vacheron Constantin’s standards of finish, this job takes around 11 hours and is done entirely by hand, but it does signify a properly finished movement.

Such is the complexity and level of finish of this horological masterpiece, that it comprises no fewer than 457 parts in a movement only 9.60 mm thick. That explains why the production is limited to just 10 pieces.

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Platinum, the purest, rarest and most enduring of metals for the new major complications by Vacheron Constantin

Sturdy in design, Breguet Marine watches have for decades been reputed for their dependable performances. In 2004 Breguet launched a new interpretation of this product line, featuring a markedly more contemporary and sporty but ever elegant design. Following the launch in 2007 of the first tourbillon-equipped chronograph with silicon escapement, this year brings a groundbreaking new design: the Marine Royale alarm watch, water-resistant to 30 bar (300 m).

Click image for enlarge view.

Breguet’s Marine Royale 5847 comes with an alarm devi ce that can only delight both amateur divers and aficionados of exceptional complications. Underwater tests confirm that sound travels better through water than through air. Sound waves require material support and their speed increases with the density of the environment. Sound travels about four times faster under than above water. Furthermore, as the underwater milieu is generally far less noisy than the aerial one, the alarm’s sound is perceived with greater clarity underwater.

The alarm setting crown and on-off pushpiece, in gold, are sheathed in rubber for easier handling, adding a further touch of sporty elegance. The watch naturally possesses the usual diver’s -watch features, not least a one – way rotating bezel and luminous markers. The bezel’s unidirectional rotation is secured by a blocking pawl, visible and located between the two winding crowns on the case flank. Shaped like a wave, it recalls the watch’s essential functions. To improve its legibility even in the murkiest waters, its minute markers and hand along with the hour hand are coated with white luminous superluminova while the alarm markers glow blue. Represented by a blue triangular pointer at 10 o’clock, the alarm’s power-reserve indicator is also luminous.

Rounding out its attributes, the Marine Royale 5847 possesses a date indicator and a self -winding mechanism. Two versions are available : white or pink gold cases, with an 18 kt gold dial with black rhodium finish. Both are manually engine-turned with the collection’s dedicated wave pattern.

SPECIFICATIONS OF THE WATCH, REF. 5847BR/Z2/5ZV
Case: round, in 18K rose gold with finely fluted caseband. Manually engine-turned caseback fitted with a sapphire crystal. Diameter: 45 mm. Rounded horns welded to the case, screw pins securing the strap. Wave – shaped ratchet at 3 o’clock serving to ensure the bezel’s one -way rotation. One-way rotating bezel with luminous marker. Rubber-covered alarm on/off pushpiece at 8 o’clock. Alarm setting pushpiece at 4 o’clock sheathed in black rubber. Screw-locked crowns. Water-resistant to 30 bar (300m).

Dial: 18K gold with black rhodium finish, displaying a wave pattern manually engraved on a rose engine. Individually numbered and signed BREGUET. Chapter ring with applied pink gilt Roman numerals and luminous dots. Triangular hand at the center for setting the alarm time. Alarm power -reserve indication in an aperture between 9 and 11 o’clock. Alarm on/off indicator in a round aperture at 12 o’clock . Date at 6 o’clock. Facetted, open-tipped BREGUET hands in 18-carat gold, coated with a luminous compound.

Movement: self-winding mechanical, with alarm mechanism, numbered and signed BREGUET. Cal. 519R. 12 lines, 36 jewels. 45-hour power-reserve. Engine-turned 18K rose gold rotor. Frequency 4 Hz. Straight -line lever escapement. Balance-wheel with regulating screws. Adjusted in 5 positions.

Rubber strap.
Also available in 18K white gold and with a leather strap.

Price: $42,000 USD

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Breguet’s Marine Royale Watch

Click on image for an enlarged view.

The first and most striking feature of this new creation is the diamond studded Celtic Knot that traverses and weaves itself over and through various parts of the movement, connecting and joining winding barrel, power reserve indicator and tourbillon in an endless cycle. The hour and minute hands are striking in their asymmetrical placement within the flowing lines of this Celtic Knot pattern.

Dating back to about the 5th century, the most emblematic and identifiable artwork in Celtic history must be considered the Celtic Knot. This symbol, also referred to as the mystic or endless knot, suggests that in life there are neither beginnings nor endings, consequently reminding us of the timeless nature of the spirit. With its unlimited and returning pathway, the Celtic knot symbolizes an uninterrupted life; it is both an emblem of longevity and the never-ending cycle of our existence. Brought into the domain of technical haute horlogerie, this eternal symbol takes on a new relationship with the timelessness of time itself.

The baseplate of the watch has been created of Black Onyx, a variety of cryptocrystalline quartz chalcedony composed of silicium dioxide, (SiO₂). Onyx varieties with rectilinear black and white parallel stripes are actually a part of the agate family, whereas the fully black type is what one commonly calls true Black Onyx. This is a gemstone able to deflect and channel harmful energy towards the Earth, thus providing stability. Due to this ability, Black Onyx is considered a stone of protection against negative thoughts, as well being the stone of equilibrium and inspiration. Adding a refined visible touch, the tourbillon endstone bridge on the onyx baseplate side is also engraved with a Celtic triquetra knot.

Keeping with the technical nature of all watches created by the brand, the RM019 utilizes a newly developed power reserve indicator that makes use of a differential gearing system, directly connected to the winding barrel. Via a red line etched on its surface, the direct turning of the power reserve barrel allows the wearer to easily note if the watch requires winding.

The RM 019 ‘Celtic Knot’ Ladies’ Tourbillon will be available in 18 carat Red or White gold cases, finished with a specially sculpted, Alcryn collared crown.

Additional information is available at www.richardmille.com.

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‘Celtic Knot’ Ladies’ Tourbillon

The watchmaking brand and the setting workshop Bunter SA have together developed a World Première with a completely invisible setting, using only black diamonds.

It’s a world “first”, and a technological and artistic achievement. The dream of combining key Hublot concepts – invisible visibility, “All Black”, watchmaking tradition and state-of-the-art technology – has become reality thanks to the creativity, the ingenuity and a touch of the “crazy” which spurred on its designers to create such a masterpiece. The high level of micro-mechanic sophistication, combined with the dexterity of the human hand, has resulted in the One Million $ Black Caviar Bang.

Its setting is very complex. The difficulty resides in the unusual lines of the Big Bang case – round but with sharp angles. The white gold, one-piece construction of the case does not reveal one grain of gold, and the diamonds, cut in mysterious ways, seem to hold together as if by magic. The only visible feature is the black and deep tones of the diamonds, shining in their harmonious alignment.

This unique piece, which houses a Tourbillon, symbolises the fusion between watchmaking and jewellery, between tradition and technology, and between glittering and invisibility. The vibration which emanates from it gives rise to an emotion tinged with fascination. As Jean-Claude Biver says: “When each element is crafted individually and incoherence with the one right next to it, this is invisible from the outside but creates a vibration of harmony which is visible and gives rise to emotion in those who perceive it”. Creating this exceptional watch demanded over 2000 hours of meticulous work, from design to final adjustment, without forgetting the research and development, programming of the machines, choice of tools, diamond cutting, optical checking of each part, and setting and casing. 544 VVS TW-IF quality baguette diamonds adorn the watch’s case, dial, crown and deployment clasp.

Details:

Case - 18K white gold set with 322 black diamond baguettes (25.11 cts)
Crystal – Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection treatment
Back – 18K white gold with sapphire crystal, interior anti-reflection treatment
Crown – 18K white gold set with 13 black diamond baguettes (1.7 cts)
Dial – 18K white gold, set with 179 black diamond baguettes (5.48 cts), circular
arc setting at 10:00 indicating the power reserve
Hands – Faceted, rhodium-plated diamond polished skeleton hands
Movement - Mechanical, manufactured, manual winding, flying Tourbillon 60 seconds,
special execution HUB Solo T
Dimensions - Diameter: 13 ¼ ’’’ (Ø 30.00 mm)
Thickness – 7.10 mm
No. of components - 148
Number of stones - 24 rubies
Balance – Gyromax regulating inertia-block
Vibrations – 21,600 A/h (3Hz)
Tourbillon - cage Ø 13 mm
Power reserve – 120 hours
Strap - Adjustable smooth natural black rubber with Hublot logo
Clasp – 18K white gold with cover set with 30 black diamond baguettes (3.5 cts),
18K white gold deployant

Source Information and Photos courtesy of Hublot Watch.

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Hublot’s $1 Million Dollar Black Caviar Watch